Waiheke Stop One: Mudbrick – Romance, Sea Spray & Seriously Good Chardonnay

Fresh off the Waiheke ferry? I’d recommend kicking things off at Mudbrick. It’s the Waiheke icon: think lavender-fringed walkways, sun-warmed stone, and those sweeping sea views that beg for a glass in hand. The wines here are just as memorable as the setting. Easy to get to - jump off the ferry from Auckland Harbour and enjoy a 40-minute walk to Mudbrick, a 5-minute drive, or, like my group, drop your bags at your Airbnb and grab a taxi (about $25 and 10 minutes from downtown Oneroa). Once you arrive, you’ll be blown away by the views! Mudbrick is a fully formed brand destination with top-notch winemaking and a family's legacy carved into Waiheke's hills.

It started in the early 90s when Robyn and Nick Jones bought a bare hillside on Waiheke and planted vines by hand, selling wine from a makeshift shelter and hauling every mud brick up the slope to build their original barn-like home. Inside hung a 1.5-metre Parisian vintage chandelier, which still hangs today in what is now the main Mudbrick Restaurant and has become a lasting symbol of the estate, featured on the wine labels. Now a fully fledged destination for fine dining, weddings, boutique stays and serious wine, Mudbrick remains a family story, led today by their daughter Francesca. Fittingly, the day the original Chardonnay block was planted, they learned she was on the way. Sadly, that block is now a car park…but its spirit lives on in the flagship Francesca Chardonnay, a star of our tasting.

And what a tasting! These Waiheke wines have real structure and character - everything is wild-fermented and confidently styled. Oak use is dialled in, with new and second-year barriques as standard, a toast level that adds spice and grip without overpowering these robust wines. They’re also not afraid to embrace the vintage variation. In 2022, winds blasted through Onetangi, leaving some Chardonnay bunches encrusted in sea spray. Instead of righting them off or attempting to wash, they embraced their salty grapes. That saline edge is now a recognisable and celebrated feature of the Francesca Chardonnay, adding a fresh, coastal edge. Around 300 cases of Reserve Chardonnay are produced, with just 100 cases going to Francesca - tiny volumes, with a super premium price tag.

Velvet, the estate’s flagship Bordeaux blend, is another chapter in the Mudbrick story. What started as a secret recipe has since been revealed - today, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon-led, with Petit Verdot adding colour, structure and black fruit. Sadly, no Velvet was made in 2023 due to Cyclone Gabrielle, but the ‘23 Reserve red blend inherited the top fruit instead, which is looking rather smart (& a good buy!). Mudbrick is also exploring new varietals, such as Montepulciano, and is considering expanding beyond its core range while staying tight on volumes and focusing on top quality. Stay tuned.

Events are a key part of the business model here, with weddings, private dining, and luxury stays available. That side of the business supports the brand’s visibility, exclusivity, and loyalty, especially with so many visitors making Mudbrick their first stop on Waiheke.

And it’s easy to see why. Production remains boutique, with the vast majority of wines sold on-site through the cellar door or restaurant. That means every element of the experience - from the pour to the plate - is brand curated. For anyone wanting to take a bit of their Mudbrick magic home, bottles can be purchased at the cellar door or ordered online.

Mudbrick may look like a polished postcard, but it’s in the details, the luxury, and the storytelling that make the experience unforgettable (aside from the fab wines!): a top first stop and a high bar set for any Waiheke wine adventure.

Tasting notes below. Shout-out to the lovely, super-knowledgeable Fiona for hosting our tasting.

Mudbrick Reserve Chardonnay 2024

$75 | 300 cases | Clay alluvial soils
Oak: 100% French oak, 8 months, 30% new

Peach-driven and poised, with butterscotch, light toast, and spicy oak on a creamy, refined nose. The palate is fresh and focused, carrying a fine mineral line. Saline sea air, peach and nectarine, yellow fruits, and gentle oak tannin, finishing with ripe lemon drop acidity. Controlled, coastal, quietly powerful.

Drink: Now to 2032
Score: 94 points - 5 Stars

Mudbrick Francesca Chardonnay 2024

$170 | Free run juice only
Oak: Francncois Freres heavy toast oak barrels

Mudbrick’s Premier Cru expression. Lemon balm, chamomile, white flowers and lemon rind layered with toasted hazelnut and almond. Subtle smoke and white peach lift the aromatics. Rich yet weightless on the palate, with ethereal florals, ripe peach fruit, and finely framed, softly textural wood tannins. Precise, elegant, and delicious.

Score: 95 points - 5+ Stars

Mudbrick Reserve Syrah 2024

$75 | 7-year-old vines

Deep, dark and spicy. Prune and black fruit aromas with hints of white pepper. The palate is bold and structured, jammy yet held in check by a mineral edge. Vanilla and cocoa carry through to a drying, grainy tannin finish. Serious structure with time on its side.

Drink: Now to 2034
Score: 91 points - 4.5 Stars

Mudbrick Oscar Syrah 2024

$170

More vibrant and red-fruited in expression. Blackberry, cocoa and subtle animal notes sit alongside dried herbs and violet florals. Dense yet rounded tannins, fine-grained and savoury. Leafy complexity and balanced acidity keep the wine fresh and composed. Great structure - built for the long game.

Ageing: 15+ years
Score: 93 points - 5 Stars

Mudbrick Reserve Red 2023

Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot | $75

Nutmeg spice, blackcurrant and cigar box on the nose, with toast, vanilla and blueberry depth. The palate is firm and structured, showing crunchy blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruit framed by toasty oak. Dry, assertive tannins with real staying power.

Ageing: 15+ years
Score: 93 points - 5 Stars

Mudbrick Reserve Red 2020

Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon | $95

Chocolate-led aromatics with dense bramble fruit and light leathery notes. Smooth but firm tannins, bold acidity and a distinctly earthy, textured palate. Cocoa dusting and pronounced oak influence dominate. Feels slightly past its peak, with the structure outweighing the fruit.

Score: 89 points - 4.5 stars

Mudbrick Robin’s Velvet 2024

$220

Deep blue and black berry fruit, intensely concentrated. Smoky, woody and chocolatey-rich, with layers of mineral, herbs and polished, toasted oak. Fine, cocoa-dusted tannins and immense depth. Powerful yet seamless. An absolute statement wine, unapologetically complex and built to last.

Ageing: 20+ years
Score: 95 points - 5+ Stars