The 2023 Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection
The 2023 Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection marks the sixteenth release in a programme that has tracked the evolution of the district since 2008. This year’s lineup features six wines, four blended reds and two Syrahs, independently selected by Andrew Caillard MW as true reflections of the season.
And what a season it was. Heat accumulation climbed to 1441 degree days against a long-term average of 1301, while rainfall surged to 885mm, more than double the long-term norm of 436mm. In February, Cyclone Gabrielle tore through Hawke’s Bay, bringing record rainfall, flooding and widespread disruption to vineyards and infrastructure. It was a defining event, testing both site and grower across the region.
In this context, provenance matters. Only members of the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association are entitled to label wines as GIMBLETT GRAVELS®, and only when those wines comprise a minimum of 95 percent fruit grown on the free-draining gravel soils deposited by the Ngaruroro River in inland Hawke’s Bay. These deeply layered gravels, just 800 hectares in total, form one of New Zealand’s most tightly defined red wine growing areas.
Under extreme rainfall pressure, those gravels proved decisive. Their drainage capacity mitigated waterlogging, while the district’s later ripening red varieties remained unripe during the worst of the weather. A shift to fine, dry conditions through harvest allowed Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah to reach full maturity.
The 2023 Selection captures more than a difficult year. It records the structural advantage of site, the discipline of production standards, and the continued global focus on Bordeaux varietal blends and Syrah that have come to define Gimblett Gravels.
Here are my notes on the 2023 Gimblett Gravels Annual Vintage Selection:
Church Road Grand Reserve 2023
93pts. 5 Stars
Cabernet Sauvignon 49%, Merlot 44%, Cabernet Franc 7%
20 months in French oak, 65% new. Alc 13.6%
Dark and composed with sweet blackberry, black cherry and cassis lifted by violet, cedar and a whisp of dried tobacco. The palate is full-bodied and densely packed, balancing ripe black fruit with savoury olive, cocoa and mocha-spiced oak. Fine, firm tannins frame a long mineral finish laced with graphite and nutmeg. Structured yet polished, this is classic Bordeaux-inspired Hawke’s Bay, tense and beautifully proportioned. Hawke’s Bay power meets precision - with benchmark value.
RRP $40
Cuvar Guardians Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec 2023
93pts. 5 Stars
Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 20%, Malbec 15%.
18 months in French oak, 50% new.
Dense and savoury with bramble, blackberry and sour cherry threaded through violet, liquorice and dried cranberry. Toasted oak, nutmeg and cinnamon sit firmly alongside earthy notes of turned soil, forest floor and autumn herbs, with a little raw meat and bouillon adding some umami layers to the nose. Dry and smooth across the palate, balancing crunchy red and black fruit with polished texture and fine-grained, rounded tannins. Bright cherry acidity gives lift, while wood spice and a faint medicinal edge linger through a medium-length finish, closing on fruit and savoury minerality.
RRP $50
Mission Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 - $29.
92pts. 4.5 Stars
Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Cabernet Franc 14%
12 months in French oak, 30% new. 14% abv.
Cassis, black cherry and mulberry aromas blend with tobacco leaf, graphite and dried rosemary. The palate is medium to full-bodied with concentrated dark fruit, firm tannins and fresh acidity. Leafy and peppery, oak is restrained, and the finish shows smoky clove, bay leaf and tea tree. Alcohol warmth is balanced by rich fruit. Cassis lingers through an earthy, clove-edged finish. A great bottle to take to dinner at friends!
Enjoy now - 2029
Squarking Magpie 'The Chatterer' Merlot Malbec 2023
92pts. 4.5 Stars
Merlot 64%, Cabernet Sauvignon 22%, Malbec 14%.
18 months in French oak, 10% new. 13.5% abv.
Stalky and leafy on the nose, showing tomato stem, blackcurrant, black plum and dried cranberry layered with Christmas cake spice. A subtle gamey richness adds depth and savoury interest. Medium-bodied on the dry palate with elevated acidity and firm, crunchy tannins, balanced by a soft, evolving velvety texture. Dark berry fruit leads into forest floor, cocoa and toasty oak flavours. Mineral and persistent, finishing on lingering dried herb notes. A complex and wallet-friendly little number!
Enjoy now - 2032
RRP $27
Elephant Hill Stone Syrah 2023
94pts. 5 Stars
96% Syrah, 4% Viognier
22 months in French oak, 40% new. 13.5% abv.
Deep ruby with violet highlights. Bursting aromatics of ripe raspberry, red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry, layered with violet and lavender, black pepper, smoked meats and a graphite twist, touched by toasted cedar. Medium-bodied but packing plenty of power, with fine-grained muscular tannins and vibrant red-fruited acidity driving spice, earthy mineral tones and seamless oak. Vanilla lingers on a crunchy, violet-scented, liquorice-tinged finish. Structured yet expressive, this will age gracefully into savoury, meaty complexity.
Enjoy now to 2035+.
RRP $65
Stonecroft Organic Reserve Syrah 2023
93 pts. 5 Stars
100% Syrah
21 months in seasoned French oak. 12.5% abv.
Tomato leaf, meaty beefy notes over blackberry and blueberry, lifted by violet, rosemary and cracked black pepper. Leather, soy and mushroom add savoury depth, already showing a touch of earthy development. Medium-bodied yet dense, with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit at the core. Subtle clove and cocoa sit beneath, supported by powdery chalky tannins and a supple texture. Graphite minerality and fresh acidity carry a long, savoury finish etched with white pepper. This organic beauty is impressive.
Enjoy now - 2034
RRP $65